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ROY QUIROS CESPEDES
- THIRD SURFER -
Born in San José, Costa Rica on July 8, 1951, lives in Playas del Coco, Guanacaste, begin to surfing at age 13 in 1964. Has been riding waves for 44 years. The idea to go surfing came about in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, watching surfing. We took turns with my first board in Boca de Barranca when I went in 1968 to surf. My surfing style is Back side. At that time it took between 4 or 5 hours to get to the point at Boca de Barranca, and you did not have to fight for waves.
The best was the sensation of freedom, independence, and self knowledge. Costa Rica has incredible places for surfing. Today it is easier to get to the points and people are really kind. My feeling as a surfer is that you have to live life with intensity, take care of your spiritual side and maintain balance. Surfers back then were people that enjoyed nature 100%. It was like a little family, we were few. Surfers today are really competitive.
I have surfed many places like: Pavones, Mata Palo, Drake, Uvita, Dominical, Quepos, Damas, others between Quepos and Barranca, Tivives, Mata de Limón, Doña Ana, La Boca de Barranca, Mal País, Coyote, Samara, Guiones, Nosara, Marbella, Lagarto, Junquillal, Negra, Avellanas, Langosta, Tamarindo, Playa Grande, Naranjo, Roca Bruja, Potrero Grande and other points that are still secret. I surfed Playa Bonita, Puerto Viejo Salsa Brava and Playa Negra in the Caribbean.
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I have met many well known surfers over the years. I have surfed in Panama, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Guatemala, Dominican Republic, Haiti, Puerto Rico and Brazil. In Dominican Republic, during the 70s, many places had not been surfed and people thought we were crazy to get in an ocean full of sharks. There were few local tournaments and I participated in international tournaments in Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. In some I qualified in 1st place. I am semi retired. I surf about 30 times a year. I am the captain and manager of Sport Fishing (Pesca Deportiva). I would tell a young surfer to have discipline, consistency and be careful with the extremes. Through surfing I learned to share, to have discipline and to go another mile beyond my own limits.